Trip Reports

Muttrah Souq

The best time to visit is after 4pm when the shops open again and the sun gets lower in the sky. We strolled along the corniche watching the fishing boats bobbing up and down in the water. Once inside the souq, I decided I had to buy some frankincense. At just £1 for a burner and no less than 3 types of things to burn, I was happy.

Until that is I reached the next stall. Taking a look at my purchase the trader laughed more than anyone does at my jokes. And in excellent English he persuaded me to upgrade to a better quality frankincense. A tub of nice smelling sandlewood was thrown in to the £6 'bargain'.

Thinking that the next stall might be selling 'super premium' brand francincense, I walked briskly past, only to discover my wife haggling over a couple of rather nice necklaces ( £3 each).

This is a place to just wander and get lost for an hour or so. Many of the shops here you will never see the like of again. And unlike other markets I have been to, the traders were attentive but not pushy.

Trip to the Desert

Only when you are away from the hotels do you get a feel for the real Oman. We stopped off at a little café in the middle of nowhere and ordered a couple of drinks - total bill 25p. This was such a shock after paying UK prices in the hotels that I fumbled for a while trying to work out the correct coins to hand over.

At the desert camp we watched the camels coming down to feed, just as we rode up the dunes to get a better view of the sunset. Arabian dinner was served and we were introduced to Omani dates and figs. Now if you're not keen, oh dear - you will be offered them everywhere.

A large jeep soon pulled up and out stepped a group of locals in traditional dress enjoying a night away from their wives. One thing soon became clear. Omanis are not nearly as conservative as you may read. They knew more about English football than I did, being able to name half the players in the Premiership!

Out of the jeep came a blanket, then a feast of food and drink. Soon they were dancing traditional Arabian moves as the 4 English people at the camp tried to hide. No good. Soon we were all up dancing under the stars arm in arm with the locals.

Later another jeep pulled up, and a huge fish was produced. It had been caught just a couple of hours ago in the sea and had been rushed over. So fresh, it was probably the best fish I have ever tasted. There was no problem with me not adhering to the custom that it's bad manners to refuse the offer of food!

As an aside, we learned that many people sleep on the sand dunes especially in the warmer months. Apparently, its very good for your back.

The Chedi Hotel

This is one of the most hypnotic hotels I have ever stayed in. As you arrive in the lobby, incense burns and music plays softly while a few people wander in and out of the gift shop. But it's at night when the atmosphere becomes even more serene. Beacons are lit along the pathways, illuminating the numerous ponds which lie between the hotel and the beach.

It was also my first swim in an 'Infinity Pool'. If you have not experienced one, basically there appears to be no edge - the water seems to stretch right out to sea.

The rooms, I must admit, are not the type I normally go for. Even in the brochure, they looked stark with black floors! However, while they are meant to be different in style to say the Grand Hyatt or the Al Bustan, they are actually quite romantic and trendy. The floors are granite (not black), and you set the mood with the lighting.

But my overriding memory will always be strolling around the tranquil paths, before enjoying a nice cup of coffee illuminated by a fire beacon. Magic!

Wadi Bani Khalid

Having read that you can't go to Oman without visiting a 'wadi', we faced a typical dilema - to hire a car and go ourselves, or to book an organised excursion in a 4x4? After realising it would cost about the same either way, the tour company won. The main reason - beacuse we didn't know exactly what we were looking for!

And so after miles of desert, we reached the 'oasis' and noticed a new road being built.

Oman is expecting a large increase in tourism over the next few years, but hopefully, the road won't go too far because the 20 minute walk to get to the wadi was delightful.

The first part takes you alongside the irrigation channels that are used throughout Oman for water.

A couple of donkeys were drinking while their owners washed some clothes in the lake. After several photo stops, we finally reached the end point - a beautfiul small lake filled with turquoise water and where a few people were already swimming.

Now I can imagine in 20 years time changing rooms, lockers, ice cream vans, souvenier stalls, a café etc. But today the conversion from trousers to swimming trunks while keeping decent takes a bit of ingenuity. Once in the water though it was bliss. I could see hundreds of fish, and spend half an hour swimming under bridges and round corners. It was all very refreshing, and soon it was time to change back into my clothes. Only this time, a large tour party had just arrived!

Reports written by Tom Seddon
On Your Travels
2005